Saskatchewan's culinary scene the focus of cookbook

New book an ode to the province's flourishing and unique food scene

Baba's Homestyle Perogies in Saskatoon sells more than two million hand-pinched dumplings each year. But even more impressive than the sheer number of perogies Baba's cooks roll, fill and pleat is how the orders are filled: Through Canada's only perogy drive-thru.

“It's just such a Saskatchewan thing to have a perogy drive-thru,” says writer Naomi Hansen, who documents the province's food scene in her debut book, Only in Saskatchewan (Touch Wood Editions, 2022).

True to the book's title, Baba's perogy delivery system is a uniquely Saskatchewan phenomenon. As Hansen writes, “owner Rob Engel claims he's never heard of anything like it anywhere.”

In addition to showcasing recipes from restaurants across the province — including Baba's top-selling potato and cheddar perogies — Hansen explores Saskatchewan's culinary history through archival photographs and profiles of the people behind the food.

Some of the restaurants she features are long-standing institutions. Regina's Italian Star Deli, for example, has been operating for 56 years. The bakery on Only in Saskatchewan's cover, Melfort's Golden Grain — creators of the book's recipe for bismarcks: jam-filled, icing topped yeast doughnuts — is one of a long line of bakeries housed in the building since 1908.

“Those are just so central to Saskatchewan's culinary history. And they're still there today, which is really quite an incredible piece to that history,” Hansen says.

She pitched Only in Saskatchewan to publishers before the pandemic. When she began writing it in July 2020, COVID-19 added a layer of complexity.

Restaurants have been especially hard hit: Over the past two years, 13,000 food service businesses have permanently closed, according to Restaurants Canada, and 205,800 restaurant workers have left the industry.

Some of the restaurants Hansen initially hoped to profile had closed permanently or chose not to participate because of an uncertain future. Well-loved Prince Albert spot, Amy's On Second, for example, which had been operating for more than 30 years, closed permanently because of the pandemic.

“Given that the pandemic was difficult for so many industries, I just had so much gratitude for the business owners and the chefs and the bakers and everyone who did take that leap of faith and said yes to participating, despite everything that was going on at the time,” Hansen says.

As restaurants start to rebuild, frequenting them is key, she adds. “Supporting local businesses, like restaurants and eating establishments, has always been important. But I think it's even more important now.”

Editor's note: Check out Baba's Homestyle Perogies' recipe for potato and cheddar perogies at tinyurl.com/3ytumzdn.